New York Fashion Week: Favorites & Trends

While New York Fashion Week was just over two weeks¬†ago, it feels like I’m already far behind the times posting this review now. ¬†But such is the world of fashion, especially during fashion month. ¬†It’s an understatement to say things¬†move quickly.

My lateness aside, I wanted to post this to review some pieces and collections that stood out to me, both to highlight¬†clothes I might wear and those few designers that took interesting risks. ¬†I have to agree with the top fashion editors that not enough collections felt risky or new this season. ¬†I can respect that the world of fashion is undergoing significant changes at the moment — in the social media driven world, everyone wants to have the most Instagramable collection and consumers want what they’re seeing photos of now, which is¬†why¬†many designers are choosing to offer see-now buy-now collections.

A¬†collection that is too risky, that introduces a too-new silhouette, that pushes consumers ideas about what beauty can look like too much is likely to sell less than something that meets existing expectations and comfort zones. ¬†And financial risk aside, we’ve seen so much fast change in fashion in the last half-century — from A-lines to miniskirts, from dramatic flares to tight cigarette pants — it can feel like we’ve seen it all already, and that everything new is simply a rehash. ¬†Strictly speaking, that is and isn’t true. ¬†All art is a reference to previous art; it has to be. ¬†In that view, nothing is new and yet, everything is.

This is a very substantial post as New York Fashion Week is an enormous topic.  You can use the following links to jump ahead: Trends (90s, 70s, CelebrityCollections, Cutouts, Culottes, Fringe, Gradients, Knits, Lurex, Marijuana, Patches, Ruffles); Favorites (for aesthetic & for wearability).

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Paris Couture Week Favorites & Trends

As anyone with an internet connection knows, Couture Week in Paris was a little over a week ago. ¬†For many years I have followed fashion week after fashion week,¬†experiencing it vicariously through Vogue editors and bloggers reports, occasionally posting exciting looks on twitter¬†and more recently spamming my favorite looks¬†from nearly every collection on¬†tumblr. ¬†I’ve decided to start compiling my favorite looks and writing up trends I am excited to be seeing on this blog, and my first attempt is here.

Some Favorite Looks

spring 2016 couture faves
Top-to-bottom, let-to-right: Alexandre Vauthier¬†√Čcole Polytechnique uniform coat; Elie Saab Neru collar top and punjab pant; Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda black and gold cross dress; Maison Valentino sheer gown with gold detail.

Why these four looks? ¬†To start, I am a sucker for¬†√Čcole Polytechnique coats, and Vauthier created three spectacular versions in varying sleeve lengths with subtle tailoring differences. ¬†The long sleeved show-opener was my personal favorite, both of the coats and his entire collection.

It was truly challenging to pick only one look from Elie Saab’s collection — the entire thing was nothing short of perfect. ¬†Starting with the concept of a young woman traveling on holiday to India, connecting modern silhouettes and themes with timeless Indian ones. ¬†Perhaps the best thing about Saab’s collection is that the Neru collars and sari sashes¬†do not cross into costume territories. ¬†One of my favorite details are the beige boots and the pants tucked into them, which come as unexpected in such a loose and feminine collection, yet do not feel out of place.

Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda collection received a standing ovation when it debuted in Milan. ¬†One of my longtime favorite themes in D&G’s collections is their use of catholic imagery. ¬†Crosses feature heavily in many of their lines, couture and ready-to-wear alike. ¬†The comparative¬†simplicity of the above look is what I like so much. ¬†The bright contrast of¬†black and gold, the unusual¬†but familiar silhouette, and the dark red lipstick. ¬†It is a vampy look that personally calls to mind what the most fashionable parallel universe version of¬†Buffy the Vampire Slayer‘s Drusilla might wear.

As Dolce & Gabbana’s piece reminds me of a vampire princess, Maison Valentino’s is more directly referencing an elvish princess. ¬†Barefoot with a floor length gown and decorated with bold¬†jewelry, from literally head to toe.

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